Boys will be Boys

I have written about most of Kaiden's in Panama, the highlights that is.  But there are many small things that happened that made each day special.  One of those moments took place on the beach.  Kaiden had to walk each day there and pick up rocks. shells and sea glass and he loved low tide  when he could scramble across the rocks and walk as far as he wanted ( and often times too far for my comfort). 
We had reached the far end of the beach and all of a sudden this group of young boys was near us- they looked to be around the 10-12 age range and for some reason I just felt uncomfortable and called for Kaiden to come beside me.  Meanwhile the boys were around us speaking in fast Spanish and I realized that they were asking for money .  I have to admit a few thoughts of uh-oh this could be bad.  So in a polite way I grabbed Kaidens hand and started walking.  I made it clear we had no money that I just had the plastic bag for the sea glass and my camera - which I slipped around my neck and held firmly.
The boys then became very chatty and one did speak enough English that we could communicate.  I found out that it was one boys 12th birthday and this was his party.  They walked back with us and I still was not totally comfortable but was less tense.  They wanted to see what was in my sack and when I showed them it was the glass they took off  like little crabs across the sand finding all kinds of pieces.  Most I knew were not the best and  would have not kept but how could I tell theses boys with their smiles no, and so my sack got fuller and fuller. We kept walking until we were back to the area where there are people around and I felt totally comfortable,  By then Kaiden was one of the "guys" so I sat down and let them run . I pulled out the camera and started taking pictures and they started posing. Then they wanted to take pictures - it was a moment to make a decision - did I trust them - could I trust them, and I did as they took turns taking pictures of all of us in a group.

They wanted Kaiden to go with them when I decided it was time for us to leave- which of course was a  big NO so they tagged along with us as we headed back home.When we got to the door they all wanted to come in - wanted a drink of water - you get it anything to just get behind the doors of homes that I am sure their homes are nothing like.  I firmly said no - unlocked the door and receded into the entry way.  Once again our lives had been touched by the youth of Panama.  I do not know if these boys lived in the squatter homes that are behind wooden doors and bars with staircases barely held together or if they had homes with a full family, or if they lived with numerous other families.  What a do know is that they ended up being  normal curious young boys with smiles that would light up any ones day.  I wish my Spanish could have been better or their English but it wasn't and I had to take the day as a gift and move on.  They are the next generation of a growing country and if they are any indication Panama will be in good hands.

A Day on Taboga

I wanted Kaidens last day in Panama to be a fun one and since he did not get to go to Bocas  I thought a day on an island would be good.  There is a small island named Isla Taboga and  the only way to get there is a ferry ride.  We had to be at the ticket office around 7:30 for some reason since the ferry did not leave until 8:30.  There we are standing in line and the only ones speaking English and  how was I supposed to know there there was a senior citizen group going for the day, and some how we ended up in the middle of them. When we got to the front of the line to board the guy looked at my tickets and said  no- NO what did he mean I had tickets and we were getting on that ferry - one of the other workers nodded to just go on board - come to fine out we WERE in the middle of the senior  group that had their own separate line since all the older people in this group were supposed to board first.  We well fooled them and got on board and snagged some great seats!!!
The ferry ride on the Calypso took around 45 minutes as we passed thru the entrance to the Canal and past the many huge ships that awaited their turns to lock through. The day was sunny and warm and just  made for the beach.  We got off the ferry and turned right and followed the crowd.  We had not worn our suits as we had been told there were changing houses - wrong- so  I found what appeared to be a caretakers shed and we went in and changed - Kaiden just knew we were going to be arrested. 
It was then on to the beach were man after man was trying to get us to rent an umbrella from him- me I wanted to get a lay of the beach before committing and finally did and right there johnny on the spot was a guy with an umbrella.  $5 gets it for the day and we soon discovered it was  a real deal. 

 Kaiden loved it - we walked the beach finding more sea glass and shells- he swam and sure enough he found another boy to play with.  Once again they did not speak the same language but had a blast.  They were running around catching crabs - it continues to amaze me what the world can learn from boys on a beach - yes we all can get along.
/We soon got hungry so wandered back towards town center and found a restaurant- he tried to convince me that ice cream would be okay again but I vetoed that and we got a platter of paticones, french fries and fresh fruit. Then back to the beach. 

The Isle of Taboga at one times housed a colony of lepers - the separate small island is only accessible during low tide.  The signs said no trespassing and we did not but it was fun to walk up to the edge  to see remnants of old ships, and iron wheels etc.  It was a baron spooky looking place.
Sitting on the beach you could see the skyline of Panama City but it felt miles away. Quiet and tranquil well that was until the senior citizen group must have gotten too much into the beer and 3 of the men spent several hours yelling at each other. Funny at first but later it got a bit old.  Kaiden went and purchased  an ice cream type treat for us from a vendor and eating fast took on a whole new meaning. 
We were both ready to get back on the ferry at 4:30 and head back. Tired from the sun and water but another great day in Panama. 

Being it was hot most people did not want to sit up on top so once again good seats.  Kaiden sat, arm resting on the railing and watching the sights.  The seas were calm and it was a pleasant trip.  It was a great addition when the ferry came to a slowed way down - we were in the path of the ship that was leaving the canal and had to stop to let a huge freighter to pass.  It was surreal being that close to such a ship.

We got back to the dock and as usual in Panama there were many taxi drivers asking you need taxi? 
I chose one and we walked across the parking lot to his car and hanging on the electrical box was a huge sloth - these creatures are a kind of ugly cute type of animal- and he was within reach of Kaiden. The taxi driver pointed him out and said monkey - I said no sloth but he insisted it was a monkey - geez who would think I knew more than the Panamanian???
I really find these creatures kind of cute but did he ever hiss at Kaiden.  Another  day in Panama had passed- another day of fun, interesting and yes educational experiences for an 8 year old boy. 
It was time to pack, time for one last walk and last bag of sea glass and sorry to say time for Kaiden to say good bye to Goldie and Mary and thank them for letting him be a guest in their house.

A month had passed and gone by way too fast for both of us.  He was ready to see mom and dad, but like me when leaving Panama not ready to say good bye to this country.  He has memories that I hope will last a life time and stories to tell to whoever should ask.  Who knows maybe someday he will walk the streets of Panama with his grandson.

Canal Renovations and a closed fish market

It has been a crazy  few days since flying into Panama City. Each day it we were up early and on the road for adventures than each night we had a wonderful dinner with Goldie and Mary- some nights in the dining room and others Kaiden's favorite, getting to sit on the roof and eat.  After supper Goldie and Kaiden sat side by side and played their games on either an ipod or and itouch.  I sometimes felt sorry for Goldie as it was like he had a miniature shadow - that was around even in the dark!!!.

So on Monday I decided to slow down a bit and not get going until around 11.I had arranged for Jose to pick us up and take us to the Panama Canal. At the appointed time we were outside on the narrow street waiting for him to pick us up.  But we opened the door only to nothing but a long line of traffic- across the street we went and sat down in the empty lot and waited.  It was funny to watch the people on scooters weave in and out - up and down off the sidewalks to bypass the standstill traffic.  Kaiden just kept looking and pointing and saying " look grandma here  comes another one get a picture" - the trouble was that as they traveled in and out of the cars it was almost impossible to get a good picture but they entertained Kaiden as we sat - and sat - and sat.  When all of a sudden up WALKS Jose - he had gotten stopped in the traffic blocks away and knew he could not reach us so he just walked.  Our trip to the canal started with about a half of a mile hike.  It did keep us out of the traffic though and off we went to the canal which is really very close to where we stayed.  Jose dropped us off and we went to get a ticket and hurry up the steps to see the ship that was in the canal right then. 

Up the one flight of steps and I kept thinking why was the  elevator blocked off - out the door we were only at ground level with the canal - not above it .  Back inside we went and asked - well no one had told me they were remodeling the place so the only view was at ground level and let me tell you THAT is not a good view.  Kaiden keeps looking at me like THIS is the canal.
 All it looked like was a lot of concrete and the top of a big ship.  It was hot we were thirsty and hungry and neither of us were enjoying ourselves. 
We went back into the air conditioning and took a tour of the museum.  It was very nice and it was new to the place so that was good but it did not too long to look through it.
Back outside we found Jose and took off - of course as we were pulling out we looked out and going thru the canal was one of the Windstar  Line ships with all the tall masts - darn it!!!

A  small selection from the meat market

I had planned on showing Kaiden around the fruit and vegetable market and a few other things but Jose looked at me and pointed to the back seat and here sits Kaiden eyes half closed and a gummy worm stuck in his hair.  At that point I made a grandma decision and told Jose to just take us to the fish market and we would walk back to the house.   Needless to say this was not met with much happiness from Kaiden but I prevailed and we pulled up to the fish market -only to find IT was closed for cleaning for the day.  The day was turning into a real bust.  Jose said he had another idea and took us to the meat market.  This was open and was met with a few ewwws from Kaiden as we looked at all the fresh meat sitting on the tables but most of it was gone and the smell not too bad.  But it was a quick trip thru and out the other side.
The meat market is  located close to the area know.n as China town and none of the restaurants looked too appealing to either of us so we just kept walking.  Past all the trinket like shops and the shop with a dead skinned duck hanging head and all - now THAT fascinated him.
The walk back was nice though and he got to see some of Casco Viejo but all too soon we were within a couple of blocks of the house and still had not eaten. I suggested a sandwich shop I knew but his eyes lit up as we passed the ice cream shop and he innocently said "I would be okay with ice cream for lunch" .  My first response was no way then I thought oh what the heck - one lunch of ice cream was not going to kill him and after all I was grandma so cookies and cream come  it was.  Me I went to the sandwich shop.

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A day fishing on Lake Gatun

After our day at the Embera Indian tribe you would think that the next day would be a slow day but no we were up bright and  with sandwiches packed and ready to head to Lake Gatun for a day of fishing for peacock bass.  We had read that there was a half Iron Man race taking place  but we did not realize how this would impact our trip.  The Bridge of the Americas was closed for the runners to cross the canal and so we ( and every other person leaving the city this Sunday) we rerouted to the other bridge on the on the other side of locks.  It is never fast getting anywhere in Panama City but on this day it was awful- we had left before 7  for a trip that is a little over an hour - on this day the trip stretched on forever.  We were routed to streets that had been blocked off for one way - past cops who really did not care that we wanted to go fishing!!!, Goldie and Mary have lived in Panama for 5 years- have driven across the country- and when neither of them knew where we were going  and had to call for directions  Kaiden and I were getting a little worried.  Finally we were back on the Interamerican Highway and nearing the turnoff for Lake Gatun.  We had been keeping our eyes peeled though since Lance Armstrong was participating.
Finally we reached the turn off and took off down the winding curving road through areas of pineapple farms and everything having a feel more like Boquete.  With all this beauty what could go wrong - well it was Kaiden quietly leaning over saying I think I am going to get sick- yup he was car sick.  I grabbed a plastic bag and at one point we stopped but he made it until we got the fishing place.

It was sprinkling slightly and overcast but warm and the pontoon was gassed and ready to go.  We got loaded with our guide and the owner and off we went looking for the perfect fishing hole.  We did not go far and threw in our lines - it was not too long before the fish started biting - well on everyone's lines but mine and Kaidens- we wondered if they could smell Iowa on us or what?? So it was time to find another "good hole" or at least one that liked all of us.  I did catch one but by this time Kaiden was getting pretty mad- he would see someone catch a fish and run over to that area - then the next fish was caught at the other end of the boat- well you can see it.  Finally he let loose with a yell and he had a fish and a good big one it was.  He was all smiles and the rest of us could relax and enjoy our fishing. It is terrible to feel quilty about catching a fish and trying to hide that you had caught one.
It was a nice day with a breeze to blow the heat away .  Lake Gatun was formed when the put in the Panama Canal - it is kind of strange there are tall dead trees through out and some islands.  We ate our sandwiches while listening to the quiet and watching the birds.  In a matter of a few hours we had almost a cooler full of fish and it was time to head to the restaurant to have them cleaned and we would feast on our catch.
Kaiden  helped total the catch and we had 60 keepers- we dined on 10 of them and added french fries and panicones and it was a GREAT meal.  I had to laugh though as Kaiden stood and watched them all get cleaned and then sat down and said " Grandma I felt sorry for the fish"  Gee he did not seem that sorry when he was reeling them in!!!
We got back on the boat and returned to our car - the fish we had not eaten were cleaned and in baggies to go in Goldie and Mary's freezer.  It was a quicker trip home as the iron man competition was completed and the bridge open and the streets clear.  We were tired, but not a much better day could have been had whether you were old or young.  But when the story has been told by Kaiden he caught all the big fish and he caught 48 of the 60 - ummmmm I think this is what you could call a tall fish tale- but then in the eyes of an 8 year old maybe that is the way it happened.

More of our day with the Embera Indians

fire  pit in hut on stilts

Lunch in a banana leaf

Kaiden and his new tatoo

steps up to the hut - guests are welcome the steps are pointing up

Our day with the Emberas was far from over. After lunch we got to wander around the village - Kaiden had a quick few minutes of soccer with the kids and we got to look closer at the huts.  Two women asked if we would like henna tattoos and of course we said yes - I was so busy watching Kadien get his that I had not realized that the one on my arm was over 4" and it was semi permanent which means that for the next 2 weeks my arm looked like I was a hippie biker babe!!!
  Then it was time for the demonstration of ceremonial dancing.

getting ready for his tattoo

Kaiden was not thrilled to be dancing

Home made teeter toter

The women and girls went first - they did a kind of hopping around the center pole of the main  hut while the men played whistles and drums.  They showed us several dances and then grabbed Kaiden and pulled him into the dance circle - he was not overly thrilled but went along with it  and round and round the pole they went. Of course we had time to shop before leaving and I could not resist  one of the plates- there were hundreds to choose from but one gal in particular used much brighter colors but choosing one was so hard.
All too soon it was time to crawl back into the canoe and leave. They  all gathered together for one final farewell picture and then picked up their musical instruments and bid us farewell.

Women showing us traditional dances

One last group picture

canoe in the making

The day was so much fun and what a great glimpse into  a very different way of life.  I asked our guide on the way home how they really felt about tourist interrupting their lives.  It has to be strange to have to put on a show like they do time after time,  He admitted that some were not happy with it - but the tourist dollars that are brought in is too important to their survival.  The tribe we went to visit is not the one that the cruise ships take their passengers as there can be over a hundred people there at one time depending on how many ships are in port. They lead a simple life - most of their time is spent gathering food ( fishing etc) and making the crafts that they sell.  I asked about marriage and with a small tribe etc how did they find spouses and he said they did several times a year have gatherings of several tribes and matches are made that way.
The canoe trip back is a transition between two worlds - I am not sure I could live quite that simply - but I think it would be interesting to try it for a few days.  Can't say I would follow in the native dress - or undress- but actually living it for a couple of days would be enlightening - maybe next year?

caving

Our cook for lunch and her little one

The school