Making the Move

I cannot  believe that 5 weeks have passed and it is time to move again. Living in this villa has been wonderful. 
It is very strange to move into someones home and have it become your own.  At first it is like living in a hotel.  Everything is new and it is a constant search for light switches, kitchen utensils and every time I walk in the door it is with awe that I am living in such a place.  Over the weeks it became my home- although the light switches still get me.  Slowly it becomes home and I find my favorite places to sit and enjoy, I have my favorite blanket to curl up with a good book.  Over time it is like this place is mine - I am living in a dream home and loving it. But with all dreams it is time to wake up - time to give the dogs back to their own family- time to clear out the cupboards of our foods and empty the closets and close the door one last time.
Today we are going to move most of our stuff to the apartment down town.  Bud will get his office set up and ready to go to work on Monday morning.  When we leave a home I try to leave it just as we found it - everything neatly in place and clean and as if the owners had just ran out for a short time. 
When you are only moving a short distance you really don't pack you throw things into sacks bags suitcases anything to get them moved.  It really is not fun in fact it is a pain.  I know that it will take me time once again to make a new place feel like home.   But this move has another stumbling block - I am  packing and moving to a new place and at the same time I am packing for my return to Iowa.  While there I will I not be actually "home" but living out of a suitcase, bouncing between my kid's places.  When I return I will once again have to learn where the light switches are, just what cooking items I have and just where Bud has put everything.  He will have taken over the bathroom and I will have to lay claim on the small area in the bathroom.
Living in homes in Valle Escondido is a privileged style of life.  You cross into this gated community and it is paradise- the streets are actually swept by men with brooms everyday - all yards are immaculately groomed, most people have pets  that also live a very privileged life. It is almost like a fantasy land.
Living down town is the hustle and bustle of every day Panamanian life.  The Indians are a constant visual treat for the eyes. It is great when you live without a car that everything needed is right out the door not a 1 mile hike down then back up the hill.  Living in The Boquete Luxury Apartments as they are called has a feel of a college dorm.  We are friends here and 2 of the apartments have people we lived with last year and love spending time with them.  We have jokingly said we live two lives in Panama - the one is champagne and the other is beer. We love both but the worlds are totally separate.  Many people in Valle do not really want to live in Panama- they want to live in a Panama that is a mini USA.  Many do not speak the language and do not attempt to try.  They do go get their groceries downtown, attend the Tuesday market but do not interact with the locals.  They are missing so much and do not know it.   Bud and I did not come to a foreign land to want it to be like the US and thus we interact with the locals.  In the past I have danced with the Indians, have held the baby of a 13 year old girl, and walked the streets with candy in my pockets to give the young people.
I feel I  am experiencing the real Panama and have grown as a person with experiences that have opened my eyes to things I never thought I would see.
Slowly Panama has become my second home. One that I want to see advance but not change to life in the US and if in any small way I can assist I am grateful .  I do wish  that each of you could have this chance.

Trip to David

Last Monday when my trip to the orphanage got canceled I decided to take the bus to David by myself.  I packed up my passport as when we leave Boquete we always must have it on us ( here we can carry a copy). Walked down the hill to the bus stop; and got on. Those who followed me last year know that the bus is nothing more than an old used school bus.   They are rearranged the seats to get MORE seats in which means that there is no leg room. I have to remind myself that I am probably at least 5-7" taller than Panamanians so they do not require the leg room that I do.  Because I am over 50 I get what is referred to as  jubilado discount so I can ride the bus one way for $1.40 ( $2 is a full fare)  It takes about an hour to travel the 30 some miles.  If you want to get on a bus you stand by the side of the road and put up your hand - simple and it does NOT make any difference how full the bus is.  Starting in Boquete there may be 20 people on board and by the time we reach David there could be 60+. 
It is a nice ride and I have even been known to fall asleep.  Window open , Panamanian music blaring over the CD player and anything large is stashed in the back where they have removed a seat.  Some drivers own there own buses and other are drivers. On every bus is an "aide" who opens the door, places things in the back and some times takes the money.  You do not pay until you get off. 
This trip I did not go all the way to the bus depot but got off at the small shopping plaza about a mile from the depot.  I wanted to shop and shop I did. Conway ( like a Target) Arrocha, a couple of clothing stores and a Subway.  Today I felt confident and tried my Spanish and really did not do too bad.  I was excited to find some elementary Spanish Grammar books to work on  . I managed to order a chicken sandwich at Subway and tell them all I wanted on it.  It was much warmer there than here - in fact David the 2nd largest city in Panama is also known as being the hottest. But summer is just starting so it was not unbearable. 
I also went across the street to Super Baru a large grocery store and found a few items that I cannot get in Boquete.I have always enjoyed grocery stores in foreign countries - the way they display their foods - how they place food in different categories than we would at home etc. 
It was soon time to catch the bus back home and I knew I could do so right out side of the grocery store.  My common sense did not kick in and I did not think about the fact that not getting on the bus at the depot meant that LOTS of people had gotten on before me and there would not be any seats.  I was content to stand but was told no I had to sit - so there I was with 3 adults and a child all in one seat.  Now remember there is no leg room so I am not only trying to keep my feet out of the aisle as people are constantly getting on and off but I cannot get me knees to fit.  All of this while sitting on ONE "cheek" - I think there should be a discount for having to sit like that.  The ride seemed to take forever and every time I spotted someone getting off and leaving a space to actually sit with both cheeks on a seat I was beat out - it is kind of like a game of musical chairs and I definitely was not winning. 
An hour later we arrived - me stiff and sore from bracing myself to stay on a seat.  I thought later I should have taken the little old lady who was sitting beside me and put her on my lap - she was small enough to fit but in hindsight I think she was too prim and proper for that.

Riding the buses here does make me think about my trips to town in Iowa.  Driving my own car - but then having to find parking etc.  It costs we $2.80 for the trip - a lot cheaper than gas would be.  It also does limit my shopping as there is only so much I am going to contend with on a bus.  It really is a neat experience and I am amazed at the gringos who look at us and say they have never ridden the buses here.  Everyone really should do it at least once and maybe they actually would like it. 

I Danced with Indians

After such an exciting and cultural experience as the birthday party on Saturday night I did not think it could be equaled, but Sunday did just that.  We were invited to go out to La Jungla, a wildlife sanctuary and rescue for a Christmas party for the Gnobe Bugle Indians.  Our friend Larry was going to make pizzas for the day.
It was held in the small community of Palmira- which really means it is a "wide spot in the road" with an Indian grocery store.  We had never been on this curvy winding road farther up in the mountains.  The road took us by a coffee factory.  It was about a 10 minute ride. 
We arrived at a wonderfully painted building and found several hundred Indians in the compound.

 We found 2 ladies doing face painting and they worked for 4 hours nonstop.  The kids loved it and loved me taking their pictures and showing them how they looked.  Dan a musician played key board and sang.  La Jungla has monkeys of all kinds, snakes, turtles, a huge fenced in area full of goats of all ages and the kids ( not pun intended) chased and caught and held them.  There is one horse and they were giving rides. 
I have never seen so many Gnobes in one place . They are such a colorful people with the women in their long dresses. 
Each person received a very small piece of cheese pizza and a piece of cake.  They stood patiently in line waiting for their turn for this treat.  It was in no means a meal but it was a treat.
Most had eaten when I sat down by the musician and for some reason I jumped up and started dancing. I danced over to several young boys probably around 10 and held out my hands to dance - they at first looked at me like I had 4 eyes or something.  Finally a young girl took my hands and we danced, and I reached for another and suddenly dancing with me was the "it" thing to do.  They did not actually line up but inched their way towards me. One little boy really loved it and did move his feet to the beat where as most just smiled at me and swayed slightly so I started twirling them so they had to move.  I have no idea how long I danced but the sweat was dripping off the end of my nose and my glasses had fogged up.
When the music finally quit I was soaked with sweat but do not remember enjoying dancing ever as much as on this day.

 
I have no idea if these people will remember this day like I will-these people who are so somber smiled at me and with me.  The parents seemed to enjoy  seeing their children dancing with the strange gingo woman. 

 I wish all of you could experience a day like this - it is one that will stand out whenever I think of my days here. This year when eating your Christmas dinner of turkey and dressing think about the Indians with a piece of pizza and cake and know that they were as happy with it as you will be with your meal.

quiencieneta- a girl turns 15

Last night was one of. the most wonderful experiences we have had in Panama and this gal forgot her camera.  I am so mad that I could be so stupid but will try to describe the experience through words.
Our friends Bob and Pat have a Panamanian family that lives on their property, it was a daughter of that family that we attended the first communion for..  Last night her sister had her Quiencieneta - her 15th birthday party.  From what I have read there are 2 huge days in the life of a girl in Panama- her first birthday and her 15th.
For a little back ground you must understand that this family is not rich - in fact I am sure they live day to day.  Jesus the father works and earns $260 a month- Rosa the mother cleans homes. With the assistance of donors their children attend a private school and one will be attending college this year with scholarships.
That leads us to last night.  We were invited through Bob and Pat who asked Rosa if it was okay.  The event was held at the fair grounds in the main building. It costs $80 to rent ( remember the families income is less than $300 a month)  We arrived at 8 and with typical Panamanian ways it really did not get started until 9:30.  We went in signed a guest book and found our assigned table. The invitation included the name of a movie and on each table was a decoration that the top was a star with the movie name.  Some of the names were in Spanish and some in English???? Starwars, Apollo 13, Wizard of Oz over 50 tables set for 4.   All with red table cloths.  In the front of the room was a stage and all the decorations were related to movies and records, in the center was a chair draped with cloth and it reminded me of a throne- there was a red carpet  leading up to it. A  DJ was playing typical teenage music and mostly in English.
After we had sat there about 1/2 hour the young girls went around and placed a bottle of rum on each table  that was decorated with a bow and a picture of the birthday girl ( I am sorry but I cannot figure out how to spell her name!!!)then they walked around with a large bowl of chip like snacks.
At 9:30 the lights were dimmed and the procession began.  There were teenage girls, and younger girls ( a couple were sisters) all dressed in white knee length dresses with gold sashes and gold heeled shoes.  The boys were in black pants, white shirts ( always here) and gold ties.  The announced each couple just like when a wedding party arrives- the couples danced there way to the center of the floor then lined up on each side of the red carpet.  3 young couples probably 4-6 years old entered and each girl carried a pillow much like a ring bearers pillow  the first held a ring box, the 2nd a pair of  gold shoes and the last a tierra. 
Finally she entered dressed in a pink and gold formal gown - fancy makeup and escorted on each side by a tall handsome teenage boy. She danced and twirled her way to her thrown and was seated.
Then there was the presentation of the items on the pillows. Her father presented her with a ring, her mother the gold shoes and she placed them on her feet, her crown placed on her head and then she was presented a bouquet of red roses that were then handed out individually to people special in her life - parents, sisters, brother, grandparents and friends,  Each walked up to her received the rose and kissed on the cheek.  All this time a professional photographer was snapping pictures ( now remember the income this party was  put on by).
Then there was the first dance - once again it had all the looks of an Iowa wedding with the father taking his daughter to the dance floor for a waltz. Then men and boys cut in and danced with her- each time the photographer would take a picture of them. 
Just as we thought things were winding down in the door came a LOUD band playing the traditional Panamanian music which means loud horns and drum beating!!!  It was so startling as they played the "birthday party" broke into couples and danced with the birthday girl leading them around the dance floor.
I laughed as Bob leaned over to me and said the only musical instrument they were missing was a jack hammer- so that gives you an idea of the sound.
The parents finally thanked everyone for coming as glasses of champagne were passed out and a toast to the girl was given. 
Next came 2 groups of teens doing dance routines much like I envision in the streets of NY- the 2nd group included the birthday girl doing more what I would call a cheerleading routine. As they finished our food was served to us at our tables no buffet line here- typical meal of roasted pork ( but ours was mostly roasted fat!!!) beans and rice, potato salad and tamales.  I cannot say it was good but there was a lot of it.  We never did receive anything to mix the rum with sorry to say. 
The DJ took over and the young people took to the dance floor - I love to watch the people here dance- it is not jumping and moving around without any real partners it is  more like I remember my parents dancing - but with more jive!!! It seems like from the time they learn to walk they learn to dance as the little ones did almost as good as the older ones. We did not stay long enough to see the beautiful 3 layer cake cut but our ears had had enough!!
The night was special and I am in awe that this family could afford to host such an affair- Pat had said they had been saving for more than a year. Luckily the next girl will not turn 15 for a couple of years.  The entire night was an experience for all of my senses- A night that felt like  combination of homecoming queen, Cinderella, wedding and of course birthday. A night I will think back on often and wonder why these type of traditions have not made it into our culture ???

this is from another blog but thought many of you may be interested

Noriega Due Back Tomorrow by richarddetrich Noriega is scheduled to return to Panama on an Iberia flight arriving Sunday afternoon.  From Tocumen International he will be moved to  El Renacer prison where supposedly he will not be placed in a "luxury cell" and he will receive the same treatment as all other inmates, with certain considerations because of his advanced age and health condition and to protect his security.  It was 22 years ago that Noriega was hustled off by the US following the Invasion as a POW. He served time in a federal prison in Miami on drug charges, treated with all the perks of a POW "general" even although Panama had dissolved its military, and then was extradited to France Noriega spent 20 years in a Miami where he served time on charges he had laundered $3  million for the Medellin cocaine cartel. Noriega is 77 years old, has prostate cancer and suffered a stroke in prison.  He claims now to be a born-again Christian.  He is returning to Panama facing convictions in absentia for masterminding the  murders of two opponents, Hugo Spadafora, a physician whose  decapitated body was found stuffed in a postal sack, and Moises Giroldi, a  renegade army major who led a failed coup attempt against him.  He has also been convicted of the murder of 11 mutinous officers at Allbrook airport as his regime was falling. In many ways Noriega is a hot potato for Panama.  Panamanian law allows prisoners over 70 years of age to be permitted house arrest under certain circumstances.  While compassionate, there is not a lot of compassion for Noriega amongst many Panamanians, and there are many who would like to see justice one way or another. Aside from an as-told-to autobiography, Noriega has largely kept his mouth shut during two decades of incarceration, but according to his lawyer, Julio Berrio, "Is coming to Panama to proclaim his innocence." The current President, Ricardo Martinelli, trounced Noriega's former PRD party in the last elections and has kept them on the run. According to an article in the Vancouver Sun, "The people who are probably the most nervous are in fact in the PRD, his political party," said Orlando J. Perez, a political scientist at Central Michigan University, who spoke while traveling in Panama. "In the last 21 years, they've made a very concerted effort to distance themselves from the Noriega regime and militarism." Martinelli may be already drooling and is quoted as telling a local TV station, "We are going to learn about many fortunes that were made illegally in this country." [Panamanian politicians tend to make a living out of exposing the financial shenanigans of their opponents. But since the all seem to accuse every one of the same thing . . . ] AFP did a good piece entitled, "Noriega Returns To A Panama Transformed" . . . Ex-dictator Manuel Noriega returns Sunday to Panama to find a nation reconciled and transformed by an economic boom that is a far cry from the country he left on the verge of bankruptcy 22 years ago . . . Since Noriega's departure, Panama "has made a 180-degree turn," said Felipe Chapman of the Indesa economic and financial institute. "Panama is a perfect example of how you can prosper much better under a democracy than an authoritarian regime," Chapman added. A new El Dorado for investment thanks to its free trade zone, busy airport hub and role as home to several UN agencies for Latin America, Panama has become the "Dubai of the Americas," according to President Ricardo Martinelli, himself a businessman. The economy of tiny Panama, niched between Colombia and Costa Rica and largely dependent on services, tourism and commerce, is flourishing, with a growth rate nearing 10 percent and debt below 43 percent of GDP. Major public works have also taken place -- such as widening the Panama Canal and building a subway system in the capital -- as the country goes all-out to be removed from a list of global tax havens . . . Economic revival took off on the last day of 1999, when the United States handed back control of the Panama Canal after 85 years. This key shipping route linking the Pacific and Atlantic oceans has since brought $6.6 billion to the country, including $1 billion in the last fiscal year alone. Flag of convenience ships, which are registered in Panama rather than the country of the ship's owners, have also delivered significant revenues. This period of prosperity has been accompanied by political change that has made Panama a "reconciled" nation today, according to political scientist Jaime Porcell. There have also been peaceful changes of power between pro- and anti-military figures, reassuring investors that Panama is a stable bet. But "it's not all roses," Porcell said, noting that while the economy may be sound, wealth distribution remains very uneven. Nearly a third of Panamanians live below the poverty line, and the country is still battling challenges linked to inflation, corruption and insecurity. Observers say this important transition period means Noriega's return will be bottom of the list of concerns for a youthful population -- the average age is 27 -- for whom Noriega has already been relegated to the dustbin of history. More than anything else, the former dictator could become just another "tourist attraction," the former head of Noriega's national guard Ruben Dario Paredes said. richarddetrich | December 10, 2011 at 7:17 am | Categories: Baby Boomers, Boomer Retirement, Boomers, Chiriqui, Expat, Expat Panama, Panama, panama living, Retirement, Retirement in Boquete, Retirement in Panama | URL: http://wp.me/p83I6-2nM Comment    See all comments

Summer has arrived

It is so strange to be coming into summer- in fact for 2 years I have lived in a constant summer.  When summer arrives in Boquete the winds shift from the north- the sun returns for full days and it is warmer.  The one thing that is really different is that the nights get cooler than in the winter, so a jacket is a must after 6.  But it is a pleasant type of cool. 
Having missed Spanish class last week because of the holiday we doubled up and went to class on Mon. Wed. and Thurs. To  celebrate our accomplishments ( limited as they were) we once again hosted our class here at our home.  It also was a goodbye to our teacher Itsy.  She is returning to her home in Santiago ( this is the town that is the bus stop between Panama City and David)  She is not sure if she is returning to teach or not. The pay here for teachers of any type is very low.  She was asked to teach in the International School in Boquete but the pay is only $450 a month - really quite high for here as teachers are very lowly paid- but when you figure in rent etc it is not enough to live on without having a family home to live in.  She feels that if she could earn $600 she could make it.  It is hard to conceive that one can actually live on that amount of money for an entire month.  We are in hopes that she can find a job and returns to Boquete.
Our fiesta was a blast - we learned more about Itsy's and Rinske's lives a true insight into life in Panama from a true Panamanian and from a gal from Netherlands that travels for adventure. I will miss our time with both girls.
Thursday was Mothers Day.  I read that Panama is the only country that does not celebrate this holiday in May.  It has something to do with a past Presidents wife who felt it should be closer the Christmas and in correlation  with the Virgin Mary.  This is a huge holiday here in fact one of the top 3 days of the year.  Most stores are closed - downtown was very quiet. I told my own kids that it was Mothers day ( yea I think I deserve 2 days a year) but one of their responses was that it was too bad that I did not have some Panamanian kids to honor me.
We are approaching Christmas and many houses are decorated - most Panamanian homes have huge real trees on their porches plus more in the house-,  They are beautifully decorated but not our red and greens but in mauve, blues, purples and they are gorgeous. I am going to miss Christmas here this year as I am returning to Iowa for 3 weeks.  I did like the fact that they shot of fireworks all over the mountains at midnight. This year I will have a red and green Christmas and be surrounded by family but Bud will remain here.  I am looking forward to family but not looking forward to the cold.  I am going to freeze my hind end off after not experiencing the Iowa cold for 2 years.  So it had better be at least a white Christmas. So look out Iowa I will be return on Dec 21st just in time for Christmas and for the arrival of a new Gage baby - I am hoping that Kyle and Emily make sure that little guy waits for me to make his appearance.  I am not traveling that far for him to beat me to Iowa!!!
I am really excited for my return to Boquwete though as I am bringing my grandson Kaiden back with me for a month.   I will get to see Panama through an 8 year olds eyes!!! He will go on a plane ride, see the ocean, zip line, but most importantly he will lean how different life is in another country,  I have permission to take him to the orphanage with me.  I am hoping that he will be able to interact with children his own age. 
He will than have the experience of returning to the US as an accompanied minor - an extra fee of $100 has to be paid so that he is taken care of - placed on and off flights and returns safely to the arms of his parents.
This week I also returned to the optometrist for my annual eye exam.  I did this last year and found that their technology equaled if not surpassed what I can get at home. I was also able to make the appointment and pick out frames mostly in Spanish.  But then they called yesterday morning to confirm my appointment and I discovered that my Spanish on the phone sucks.  I went yesterday and had a different doctor from last year but a great middle aged man.  He was running late and came in the door carrying a printer that he took into the exam room and I presumed hooked it up only to have it not work when he tried to print out my prescription.  It was funny he spoke a little English I spoke a little Spanish and I had a great appointment- he was so careful on everything he did - he even joked with me.  After my exam I paid my bill and once again it amazed me that my new glasses will be here on Tuesday.  As slow as everything and every day life here is Panama for some reason new prescription glasses move at the speed of light!!!!!
I am continuing to work out  at Milly's gym and do the vibration- or my case jiggle - machine-and am hoping a little less jiggling is going on.
I am taking in many sunrises and sunsets that have colors that are fantastic.  Our Balcony here is great for views especially in the early mornings and evenings.